Watch servicing costs have gotten complicated with all the varying quotes and conflicting advice flying around. As someone who has navigated service decisions across multiple price points, I learned everything there is to know about when that invoice makes sense. Today, I will share it all with you.
That quote from the authorized service center just arrived: $800 to service your $2,000 watch. Is this highway robbery, or the genuine cost of proper maintenance? Understanding what watch servicing actually involves helps you evaluate whether that invoice makes sense, and when it’s smarter to skip it entirely.
What Happens During a Full Service
Probably should have led with this section, honestly. A complete overhaul involves far more than most owners realize. The watchmaker first opens the case, removes the movement, and completely disassembles it, often 100-200 individual components depending on complications. Each part goes into an ultrasonic cleaning bath to remove old lubricants and debris. Parts are inspected under magnification for wear, replacing anything beyond tolerance.
Reassembly is the skilled work. The watchmaker rebuilds the movement, applying fresh lubricants to approximately 50 different points using caliber-specific oils. Each pivot, bearing, and sliding surface requires the correct lubricant type and quantity. Too much oil migrates and contaminates other areas. Too little accelerates wear.
The movement is then regulated, adjusting the beat rate and timing across multiple positions to achieve consistent accuracy. Gaskets are replaced, the case is polished if requested, and the watch is pressure tested for water resistance. The whole process takes 3-6 hours of skilled labor for a basic three-hand automatic.
The Cost Breakdown
Labor dominates servicing costs. A trained watchmaker in developed countries earns $30-60+ per hour. At 4-6 hours per service, labor alone runs $150-360 before parts, equipment overhead, and profit margin. Authorized service centers charge more because they guarantee manufacturer specifications and use only original parts.
Parts add up quickly. A mainspring might cost $30-50. A new balance staff runs $40-100. A complete set of gaskets typically costs $20-40. For luxury brands, these prices increase dramatically. A Rolex movement part might cost three times what a generic ETA equivalent costs, even for functionally identical components.
Complications multiply costs. A simple time-only watch might service for $250-400 from an independent. A chronograph adds another $100-200 for the additional module work. Perpetual calendars can exceed $1,000 at authorized centers due to specialized expertise and parts.
When Servicing Is Worth Every Penny
That’s what makes proper servicing endearing to us collectors—it maintains value and longevity. Vintage watches, especially those with significant value, should receive full service every 5-7 years or when running noticeably erratically. The cost of deferred maintenance on a $15,000 vintage Rolex is replacement parts far exceeding service costs.
Watches you wear daily deserve proper care. A daily driver running for ten years without service will develop internal wear that eventually requires expensive part replacement rather than simple cleaning and lubrication. Regular service prevents compounding problems.
Complicated watches need attention from qualified specialists. A moonphase or perpetual calendar serviced incorrectly can develop issues that cost thousands to repair. Pay for expertise on complicated pieces.
When to Skip or Delay Service
Watches keeping excellent time that haven’t been serviced in 5-6 years might not need intervention yet. Modern synthetic lubricants last longer than vintage oils. If it’s running within specification, leaving it alone is defensible.
Inexpensive watches often cost more to service than replace. A $200 Seiko 5 serviced at $150 might make less sense than wearing it until it fails and buying a replacement. This isn’t ideal for the environment, but it’s economic reality.
Watches in rotation that see occasional wear experience less stress than daily wearers. A dress watch worn monthly might go 8-10 years between services without issue.
Finding the Right Service Provider
Authorized service centers guarantee manufacturer specifications but charge premium prices. They’re the safest choice for valuable pieces and the only option for watches under warranty.
Independent watchmakers offer value but vary in quality. Look for certifications, specializations in your brand or movement type, and reviews from other collectors. A good independent can save 30-50% compared to authorized service.
Ask about parts. Will they use genuine components or aftermarket? For luxury pieces, genuine parts preserve value. For everyday watches, quality aftermarket parts can reduce costs without meaningful compromise.
