19 Seiko watches that'll fire up your love of horology (2024)

Seiko watches have long been the choice for those after ultimate value. The brand, founded in 1881, has all the hallmarks of the most prestigious Swiss brands: innovative designs, genuine in-house movements and fastidious build quality. Yet its watches are far more accessible than most, making the brand a favourite among both watch newbies and hardcore collectors.

Where else can you pick up a 200m water resistant, automatic diving watch for less than £380? Seiko has the heritage too. From featuring on the wrist of Captain Willard in Apocalypse Now, Arnie in Commando, and Roger Moore throughout his tenure as Bond, to pioneering the quartz revolution in the ‘70s, Seiko has done it all.

Seiko Prospex Diver GMT ‘Dark Depths’ SPB383J1

Seiko might be the purveyors of intricate dial art but nothing beats a ballsy monochrome dive watch with big wrist presence. There is something magical about the evolved ergonomics of Seikos case design, as demonstrated by this 42mm fella. Powered by an in-house automatic movement with a big 72-hour reserve, this 200-metre dive tool also has a touch of gold on the dial. The glimmering arrow pointer makes for top-tier travel functionality. £1,400. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko Presage Style 60s SSA449J1

The big value of in-house watchmaking from Seiko remains strong albeit with an elegant twist in the form of the Presage model. This Style 60s series punches above its weight class and straddles the line between vintage cool and timeless chic. Its design language is refined yet everyday wearable on a tough steel bracelet and we’d go for the black and cream version. £570. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko Speedtimer ‘Racing Sports’ SSC943P1

While panda sports watches are a popular choice of watch flex, there’s no disputing the Rolex Daytona’s crown (it’s literally on its dial) in that category. But Seiko’s Speedtimer – a champagne-toned with a lush green bezel – offers a great everyday budget alternative. We might never learn to use a tachymetre but that rally strap certainly makes us feel race-ready. The solar-powered accuracy is unbeatable, with a 6-month power reserve should you enjoy the sun-less winters of the Arctic. £590. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko Astron ‘The Blue Nebula’ SSH077J1

Almost menacing in its hypnotic dial, the deep purple-blue belies the tech-feast of this Astron. Rocking a black DLC case, through a GPS signal it automatically adjusts the function-packed dial to your exact time and boasts a 100m depth rating. The solar-powered Seiko Calibre 5X also has lightning-fast functionality, making it a stealth powerhouse for £1,950. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko King Seiko ‘Jade’ SPB373J1

In the ’60s, King Seiko and Grand Seiko fought for the upper echelons of the market, and now the King is back. Pandering to our love of retro, the revived series has a brooding, broad-shouldered design and is a more affordable alternative to a Grand Seiko. Boasting the sparkle of obsessive dial detail in the year’s fave green, the sunburst jade green KSK has a multi-link steel bracelet and all the right vibes. £1,700. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer ‘Panda’ 1972 Chronograph Reinterpretation

There’s something particularly evocative about ‘Panda’ dials. Named after the black and white coat of the Chinese bear, watches featuring this classic combination reference the '60s and ‘70s, when such pieces were adopted by the motor racing Hollywood set – think McQueen, Newman and the like. While this watch has a direct lineage to Seiko’s classic 6139 Speedtimer from 1969, it’s actually a remake of a slightly later 1972 piece, and is in fact brand new. Boasting Seiko’s in-house 8R48 mechanical chronograph movement, it beats at 28,000vph for a silky smooth seconds sweep around the tachymeter. £2,500. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko 5 Sports Field ‘Deploy’ Mechanical GMT

The Seiko 5 Sports line has been on fire lately. It represents the ultimate in affordable mechanical watches and makes us question the value of anything that costs over £1,000. Expanding on its long running sub-family of field watches, this new piece comes with the added jazz of a GMT function, allowing the user to measure two time zones simultaneously. It’s a feature usually available on watches twice as expensive, and gives an added tool element to this already outdoorsy, military-inspired look. £410. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko ‘Beer Julep’ Presage co*cktail Time

Many of the best watches are inspired by beverages. There’s Rolex’s colloquially named root beer and Pepsi GMT Masters, and Seiko’s ongoing co*cktail line, with its ‘Blue Moon’, ‘Half and Half’, and this one, the ‘Beer Julep’. Inspired by the co*cktails of bartender Hisashi Kishi, this one boasts a graduating cream to light brown textured dial, which mimics the way the drink is viewed through the glass. Elsewhere the gold coloured steel case, matching bracelet and see-through caseback injects a further level of bling that ensures this piece is ideal for all manner of special occasions, drink in hand or not. £470. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko Astron ‘Galactic Blue’ GPS Solar 5X Dual-Time

In keeping with Seiko’s Astron line, this piece is suitably otherworldly. Powered by an in-house GPS solar movement, it gets its power from both natural and artificial light, holding its charge for six months and losing only 15 seconds per month. Its party trick is its ability to instantly switch from home to local time with the push of a button, with each hand moving independently. Limited to 1,200 watches globally, it’s made from titanium and comes with a meteor-inspired pressed pattern dial. £2,400. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko Presage 60s Road Trip GMT

Inspired by the instrument clusters of classic '60s sports cars, this watch combines a vintage feel with a thoroughly modern in-house movement. You can track multiple time zones with it thanks to its GMT function, or just sit back and admire the ‘fume’ grey, gilt dial and applied markers. £580. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 1969

Panda-dial watches are particularly lauded for their throwback charm. This one has a trick up its sleeve though, given that it’s powered by a quartz solar movement. The three sub-dials are actually solar panels, which can continue to power this classic looking chronograph long after the battery dies. £590. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko Scuba SKX007

The SKX007 was the automatic watch bargain of the 20th century. Introduced in 1996, it came with 200m water resistance, a hardy, stainless steel case, classic diving watch bezel and round hour markers, as well as racy red lettering at 6 o’clock. An easy daily wearer, it represents everything that’s great about the brand: durable build quality, reliable timekeeping and classic Japanese design. £369. At jurawatches.co.uk

Seiko Prospex 1965 Diver’s

Seiko has a rich history in dive watches, as evidenced by this piece. Inspired by Seiko’s – and Japan’s – first diving watch made in 1965, it’s a fairly faithful reproduction, albeit upgraded with the brand’s state-of-the art 6R35 movement, a part-ceramic bezel and the Seiko’s first in-house, fabric Nato style strap. £1180. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko 5 55th Anniversary Limited Edition

Another re-edition of a classic Seiko design, this model is a recreation of the first ever 5 Sports watch launched in 1968. The distinctly retro styling includes a stainless steel cushion case, the original ‘5’ logo and a brushed, integrated bracelet. It even comes in a period-correct red box that playfully references the original. £350. At hsamuel.co.uk

Seiko 5 SRPG27K1 Field Watch

Seiko’s tool watch expertise extends beyond just divers. Its field watches have genuine military heritage, with the brand issuing to various forces around the world, including the RAF in the ‘80s and ‘90s. This piece references classic field watches with its easy to read dial and brushed finishing, plus it’s automatic too. £280. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko Presage Enamel

Seiko does dress watches too. This Presage design comes with a Japanese ‘Takumi’ enamel dial finished in a deep navy shade. The sleek, 39.5mm case is slim thanks to the hand-wound movement, while the crocodile leather strap completes the elegant, suit-ready look. £3000. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko Prospex Dark Depths GMT

It’s not often you find diving watches with GMT functions, but Seiko has combined the two with its brand new 6R54 calibre movement. Coming with a three day power reserve and a ceramic bezel, this diver offers incredible value for money and has all the hallmarks of a future classic with its vintage inspired design and subtle pops of colour. £1400. At seikoboutique.co.uk

King Seiko KSK ‘Kiki’ 6L

A more luxurious sub-branch of the group, King Seiko pieces are notable for their high quality of finishing and slightly dressier designs. This one ups the ante with its unique looking dial, which is inspired by the Japanese chrysanthemum ‘Kiku’ flower with its intricate recurring pattern. Limited to just 600 pieces, it comes with a ‘70s style bracelet, a polished bezel and the 6L35 automatic movement. £3000. At seikoboutique.co.uk

Seiko Astron GPS

The Seiko Astron was the world’s first quartz watch, nearly breaking the traditional watchmaking industry when it launched in 1969. This one isn’t quite as revolutionary, but it is the world’s first GPS solar watch with its quartz powered 3X62 movement. It’s special because you’ll never have to set the time with it, and it automatically updates remotely via GPS satellite, regardless of where you are in the world. Plus it looks pretty cool with its ‘70s inspired polygonal case, geometric dial and integrated bracelet. £1800. At seikoboutique.co.uk